Scenic Motorcycle Rides – Backbone Rock, TN

photo - motorcycle cruises through Backbone RockI went back to Virginia this weekend to revisit and explore some of the sights I’d passed while mapping the area

I’m pretty much all business when mapping – I only stop for three things; gas, to take notes, and when “nature” forces me to do so. Eating is a luxury typically left for the evening to make the most of the time on the road. This trip was to go back and savor some of the gems I’d just blown by previously.

One of my favorite loop rides is found near the point where North Carolina, Virginia, and Tennessee meet, a 103 mile jaunt that takes you on some of the twistiest and most scenic roads. It’s listed on America Rides Map #4 – “Great Roads Near Boone, Banner Elk, and Blowing Rock.

Heading south from Damascus, Virginia, on SR 133, you soon enter the National Forest in Tennessee and signs for Backbone Rock Park start appearing along the road. Round a curve and you find yourself zipping through the quick yet dramatic tunnel through Backbone Rock.

I stopped in to investigate.

The Empire Mining Company blasted through Backbone Rock in 1901 to lay train tracks for the Tennessee Lumber Company. Long gone, the rail bed became the roadbed which continues on towards Mountain City.

The ridge is about 75 feet high and 20 feet thick, though it narrows near the top. There is a steep trail from the parking area on the right just after you pass through the rock, though if you have any aversion to heights and walking near the edge of a cliff, you’ll never make it to the section of rock which straddles the road.

There are several hiking trails, picnic tables and campsites, a waterfall is about 0.4 miles on a foot trail. The area is popular for fishing and kayaking.

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Wayne Busch

Wayne Busch - Cartographer

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– Wayne Busch lives in Waynesville, NC, where he produces the most detailed and comprehensive and up-to-date motorcycle pocket maps of the Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains to help you get the most of your vacation experience. See them here – AmericaRidesMaps.com

Wayne is an advanced motorcycle instructor for Total Rider Tech teaching Lee Parks Total Control Advanced Rider Courses. It’s time you looked into advanced rider training to ride more confidently and safely, it will change your mountain riding experience. It worked so well for me I became an instructor! Total Rider Tech

America Rides Map #4 – “Great Roads Near Boone, Banner Elk, and Blowing Rock

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"Safety Improvements" coming to NC 215? I wonder.

Photo – Enjoying a ride on NC 215

Thanks to federal stimulus funds, NC 215 in Transylvania County, NC, will be receiving $2.3 million in “safety improvements” in the form of 17 miles of new guardrail. The new guardrail will run from the the intersection with US 64 in Rosman to the Haywood County line near the Blue Ridge Parkway. Work is scheduled to begin September 28, 2009, and be completed by August 1, 2010.

Whether or not guardrails are “safety improvements” is controversial for me. They may be “safer” for cars, though I’m not so sure guardrails add any safety for motorcycles. In fact, I think they may be more dangerous. They are designed for cars, not motorcycles, and hitting one on a bike can be catastrophic. A friend hit one and it tore a chunk out of his leg so large he died. I’d prefer to take my chances going over an embankment into the trees. From what I’ve seen of accidents on the Blue Ridge Parkway, they may stop the bike – the rider goes over them (if he’s lucky).

NC 215 is one of the premier roads in the Western North Carolina mountains, one of the local classics, one leg of a ride known as “The Devil’s Triangle” on America Rides Maps “5 Classic Rides Around Maggie Valley, NC” as well as “The Best Rides South of Great Smoky Mountains National Park – EAST“. Few other roads not only intersect the Blue Ridge Parkway, but offer the long range views, the quality, challenge, and an hour of uninterrupted blissful riding. I hate to see it changed.

In addition, there have also been rumors of plans to “improve” the twistier sections of the road, plans which would widen and straighten the curves and remove the landmark “Alligator Rock”. It doesn’t seem sensible to put in guardrails now, only to come back later with improvements which will require they be moved to accommodate them. Wouldn’t it be more appropriate to do it all at once, if and when it happens? Hate to see a great road “improved”.

Wayne@americaridesmaps.com

>> Go To America Rides Maps.comhttp://americaridesmaps.com

The Most Dangerous Road for Motorcycles?

Charlies Creek Road

Charlies Creek Road - even the sign is crooked


“That’s the most dangerous road we ride” my wife commented after a recent morning outing.

It’s my favorite road!”, I responded.

“I know, but it’s still dangerous” she reiterated.

We talked a bit more about it and the things she finds most dangerous are the things I enjoy as an added challenge.

“I still like it, it’s just a dangerous road” says Jackie.

Jackie’s no lightweight. We rode dual-purpose bikes all over the country years ago, she can throw a motorcycle around. Now, astride her Beemer, she often gives the boys a run for their money on the twisty roads. She can handle herself and I enjoy watching her flow through the curves. And no, we’re not talking about the infamous “Tail of the Dragon“. That’s just another ride for us compared to this.

riding Charlies Creek Road

Be ready to get some lean on when riding Charlies Creek Road

Photo – Wayne prepares to get some lean on in a curve on Charlie’s Creek Road

What makes Charlies Creek Road a challenge is it’s unpredictability. You just never know what it’s going to throw at you next, and it throws everything in the book along it’s 10.1 mile length making it seem a whole lot longer. Mixed pavement, potholes, bumpy repairs, loose gravel, climbs, descents, first gear hairpins interspersed with sections of relatively straight road that lure you to roll on the throttle then snare unsuspecting riders with turns which shut down on them the deeper in you get. Cresting a rise you never know what lies on the other side, which way it will dive. Is there a patch of loose gravel in the next corner, a flock of turkeys in the road, will the tires maintain their grip on that concrete bridge littered with sand and rocks, what’s with this freakin turn, it’s getting tighter? How many seasons before some bear hunter discovers my rusted bike and bleached bones if I lose it out here in the middle of nowhere?

It’s a handful it you approach it cautiously. Come at it with vigor, and it will test everything you’ve got. My kind of road. Beware of Charlies Creek Road, it’s the most dangerous road we ride. It’s also my favorite and I do it as often as I can. Just don’t try to keep up with me. I know it pretty darn well. Respect it or it will eat you.

Note – Charlies Creek Road runs between NC 215 and NC 281. It’s found on America Rides Maps “#6 – The Best Motorcycle Roads EAST of Great Smoky Mountains National Park”.

>> Go To America Rides Maps.comhttp://americaridesmaps.com

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Wayne Busch

Wayne Busch - Cartographer

– Wayne Busch lives in Waynesville, NC, where he produces the most detailed and comprehensive and up-to-date motorcycle pocket maps of the Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains to help you get the most of your vacation experience. See them here – AmericaRidesMaps.com
 
See “Map #6 – The Best Motorcycle Roads EAST of Great Smoky Mountains National Park”

New Map – North Carolina / Viginia Border Rides


It’s finally ready! Thousands of miles of road work, hundreds of hours, the first of the Virginia series of maps, North Carolina / Virginia Border Rides is now completed.

It’s been a long journey to reach this point. I never expected to be including so much of North Carolina in this map, but that’s the way the mountains and the Blue Ridge Parkway run. As you approach the border between the states, the mountains make a lateral jog east-west before resuming their regular diagonal parallel to the coastline.

The Appalachians are comprised of more than a dozen different mountain ranges. While the tallest ones to the south start to play out here, those more west begin to grow. What this area lacks in height, it makes up for in breadth. The steepest flanks are along the eastern edge descending from the highest ridges towards North Carolina. The west is characterized more by rolling hills, sometimes quite impressive, but lacking the grandeur of the regions south.

The cities, all of them relatively small, and the towns, lie in the valleys between the mountains. Most of the major roads run though these valleys connecting the towns. Roads perpendicular to these vallies traverse gaps in the ridge lines. It’s a hilly and rolling country regardless, much of it rural and pastoral, and you will be rewarded with views of the extensive ranges of low mountains from almost every high vantage point.

Most notable to me was the large number of roads that are found here. I suspect this is due to the fact the mountains are not as high as to the south, so there are less impediments to travelling through them. Where dramatic rock outcroppings erupt, state parks sequester the areas for all to enjoy and preserve.

The other thing I enjoyed was discovering some of the hidden historic sights on many of the rides. More accessible, this area was probably settled much earlier than the higher areas of North Carolina. I came across old abandoned mills, country stores, barns, farms, and other relics that tell of a historical past worth delving in to and I took more than a few photos for my collection.

I must confess, this central portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway tends to lull me to sleep. Urban encroachment is far more evident, and challenging sections of roadway give way to gently rocking, almost monotonous curves. There are points of historic interest, but I suspect many just motor through seeking the more dramatic views to the north and south. This map reveals there is far more here than meets the eye.

Check out the new map, North Carolina / Virginia Border Rides here.

Wayne@americaridesmaps.com

>> Go To America Rides Maps.comhttp://americaridesmaps.com

Update on the Blue Ridge Parkway Repairs

Photo – Waiting to pass a construction zone

Somehow I must have set the GPS to “find the most traffic” and it was working fabulously. I suppose everyone else had done the same as I hit one logjam after another on my way home from Virginia earlier this week. Still, as I left Banner Elk, I though it might be a while before I passed this way again and I was curious to see how the construction on the Blue Ridge Parkway was progressing.

I’d already bypassed the detour near Boone and Blowing Rock. No need to visit that section anyway. They are replacing a section of roadbed and there’s no way to get a close look at what’s going on, nor did I want to take the time to ride up and see how the bridge work was coming to the north. The big project however was more or less on my route home – at least it was now. Anything to get off the clogged roads and unwind.

The section I was interested in lies between Mt. Mitchell State Park and Asheville. This section of the parkway was closed all of last year when a piece slid off the mountainside. That portion has been rebuilt and the project has now shifted to repairing the adjacent areas of road which had deteriorated badly. Layers of pavement had peeled away like old paint and there were some areas where small sinkholes had left huge dips in the roadway. Honestly, it was getting pretty rough and it’s nice to see it receiving the attention it needs.

I was initially under the impression the job was mostly just resurfacing. This visit revealed there are many areas where the entire roadbed is being rebuilt. It’s being done in a piecemeal fashion, probably the worst sections getting attention first. Cruising down the southbound lane, the worst of the two, I was pleased to hit gloriously smooth portions that had already been repaired. These would be followed by others which had yet to see attention and still more which would probably not require much of anything. Sporadically, I came to construction areas, most of which were flanked by idled equipment this late into the evening. A few of the overlooks had been resurfaced along the drive.

It was pretty easy going until I passed Craggy Gardens. The last of the crews was still going full steam on a good sized section of road and I found myself pulling up to a line of stopped traffic waiting for the pilot vehicle to take them through the single open lane. It was just a few minutes until it came by with a long line of cars in tow. I waited my turn then fell into the queue behind our chaperon. As we passed, the opposite lane was being filled with fresh subsoil as the road was rebuilt from the very base. Work this extensive should endure. I doubt this will be anywhere close to finished until next spring season.

I left the Parkway near Asheville only to get caught up in another traffic jam on the south side of the city. Didn’t matter much anymore. I’d been on the bike since 4 AM and I could see the familiar mountains of home on the horizon. I’d get there soon enough.

Found Some New Maps – Why Mine Are Better!

We celebrated my wife’s birthday last night with dinner at the Pisgah Inn a few miles south of Asheville, NC., up on the Blue Ridge Parkway. I know better than to reveal the details of which birthday this was, but I will disclose the meal was excellent, as good as the views from 5000 feet.

As we were leaving, I ducked into the gift shop and spied a series of maps I didn’t have. I use every possible resource when planning my routes, so I shelled out $10 each plus tax for 3 maps which covered the Blue Ridge Parkway and the areas surrounding it. These are nice maps, but I wondered, were they better than mine? Had I been outclassed by the competition? I think not.

These probably wont end up in my saddlebags. The fact that that’s where I’d choose to keep them is the first problem. They are just plain too big to toss in a pocket, too bulky. On looking at them I feel compelled to lay them out on a table. That’s hardly useful on the road. It’s hell if there’s a breeze. You could fit two or three of my maps in your pocket. A map in the saddlebag is a pain in the ass. You’ve got to stop, get off the bike, open the saddle bag, fish around to find it, unfold it, figure out which side of the map you’re supposed to be studying, find where you are, refold it, put it back in the saddlebag, yadda, yadda. I’ll take a manageable pocket map, thank you.

They are pretty maps to look at with all the topographic relief and subtle shading of greens and blues and browns. The major roads and highways are fairly easy to identify, though these are the roads I avoid. There’s little enjoyment in cruising down the Interstate or traversing the great four lane highways. Those little back roads that hold all the hidden secrets and great riding are just thin black lines lost in the shading and relief that adds to the artistic composition of the overall product. Like any great work of art, the devil is in the details and you really need to make the effort to pull it out. That’s not very useful on the road.

Still, if you spend the time studying it, you can pull out the back roads. But which ones are the good ones? Which ones should I link together to get from A to B? There are lots of squiggly lines on the map if you search for them. On my maps, the great rides stand out. Take this one, which leads to that one, and then follow this next one to get to where you’re going enjoying the best of them along the way. My maps tell you it’s 6.5 miles to the next road, it will take 19 minutes or so to do the ride, then 14.3 miles and 26 minutes on the next leg. You’ll know when you’ll be arriving at the restaurant I recommended on the map or pulling into the town where you plan to spend the night or arriving at the park or scenic overlook that’s worth your time to stop and see.

The most important info though, is something I strive to include on all my maps. Where are those out of the way gas stations? Let’s face it, some of you are looking at the big “E” after just a hundred miles or so. You could plan your rides hopping from town to town, any town of size has a gas station. Me, I prefer to just keep on rolling, avoiding the traffic lights, congestion, and speed traps that come with towns. You’d be a lot more adventurous if you didn’t have to worry about the dwindling petrol in your tank and have a lot more fun. I make sure to identify those backwoods oasis’s that keep you motoring along as well as those which flank the Blue Ridge Parkway and free you from that long fuel hose that tethers you to the main roads.

I bought some nice maps, a little better than the free versions you can pick up along the Blue Ridge Parkway or download from the Internet. These however, will go into the reference file with many, many others. I’ll pull them out to confirm locations of various points of interest and such. As a fellow cartographer, I can appreciate the effort. Yet when I head out, it will be my maps which I slip into a pocket, not a saddlebag, and whip out at a stop sign or overlook to go tearing off down some great ride through the mountains. I see things differently from a saddle with two wheels beneath me. I’m looking both for something more and something less. Just give me what I need, save the fluff for the cagers. I’ll be using America Rides Maps.

Wayne@americaridesmaps.com

>> Go To America Rides Maps.comhttp://americaridesmaps.com

Progress On The Virginia Maps

Image – The work in progress

I’ve got the basic layout done on the first of at least three Virginia maps. At this point I’m only going as far north as the Blue Ridge Parkway. Even so, I’m discovering a wealth of great roads, far more than I expected.

One of the greatest challenges has been to reset my criteria for selecting and choosing which roads will be featured on the map as the best rides. The terrain changes as you move from North Carolina into southern Virginia. You leave the 6000 ft. peaks behind and enter the rolling hill country. There are still some dramatic overlooks and long range views, those always make the grade. Without huge mountain ranges to block passage, there are more roads to choose from.

Traffic load is always a factor. I’ve ruled out several squiggly lines on the map simply because I’ve yet to experience them without getting stuck behind commercial traffic or some doddering old codger creeping around the curves. While these are pretty roads to look at on a map, they are the only connection between towns so they get heavy use. It’s easy to eliminate them.

Others are nice rides once you’re out in the country until you approach the major towns. US 221 has portions I really like, but once you get in and around Galax it goes down the tubes. Routing around Galax has been a challenge. Roads like these will probably end up being labeled in blue instead of red – good connectors if needed, but not outstanding rides.

The other frustration has been the lack of progress north. This map still contains a good portion of North Carolina due to the way the mountains run and thusly the Blue Ridge Parkway. I failed to recognize previously how much of the parkway follows along the border in this region. Still, the discovery of some really great roads makes up for it.

I’ll spend the day working in the details, the road labels, gas stations, direction arrows, place names, and points of interest. Over the next several days I’ll lay out the route for what I hope will be the last visit to complete this map. It’s obvious I have a lot of area to cover both revisiting previous discoveries and exploring the few new roads I’ve identified as likely prospects. The challenge will be to try to do it in one day to keep down costs, though that is looking less and less likely. All it takes is one serendipitous discovery, something unplanned, a road which turns to gravel unexpectedly and slows progress to throw off the whole schedule. Still, those unplanned side trips revealed some fabulous rides on this last trip and are worth the effort.

I have come to realize one thing. All the planning must be done ahead of time. I’m typically on the road before 8 AM and don’t roll into the motel until after 9 PM. I find I’m so exhausted I have no energy to revise or create new plans. It’s all about the planning.

I’m looking forward to completing this map and moving on to the next. It will be centered on Roanoke, VA., and I expect the terrain will change again as I move north from the city. There are hints of some great roads close in, just as I found around Asheville, NC. No way to tell until I ride them. It’s also a section of the parkway I haven’t visited for some time. It will all be fresh and full of exciting new discoveries. If there are half as many good roads as I’ve found to the south, it will take more than one good trip.

Wayne@americaridesmaps.com

>> Go To America Rides Maps.comhttp://americaridesmaps.com

This Bike Nite Will Be Hard To Top!

Photo – Bikes at the Mountaineer Restaurant / Riders Roost

Wow! Joanne at the Mountaineer / Riders Roost in Maggie Valley pulled out all the stops. What started as a social ride turned out more social than ride, but what a party! Only a handful of us enjoyed a fabulous cruise in the evening sunset on the Blue Ridge Parkwayjust up the hill. The action kept most at the restaurant.Photo – Bikers Always Welcome at The Mountaineer / Riders Roost

The handful of riders expected turned into a crowd of 50 or more. The place was full and lively. There was mountain music to liven things up. Some of the crew from Ghost Town in the Sky came down in full costume. Joanne had extra staff on hand to handle the crowd. Food, drink, music, entertainment, it was not surprising most stayed put.

We’re off to a good start. It’s going to be tough to top this show, and quite honestly, I’m happy just to make the rides. The timing is ideal. It’s cooling off, the sun is low and golden, the day traffic is gone, it’s a perfect time to be out for a spin.

Photo – Live Mountain Music Entertained The Crowd


It’s nice to be off to a great start. These Wednesday evening rides are open to all. I can’t promise we’ll always throw a party this good, but we’ve got some talented and resourceful people involved. If you’re in town or nearby please come by and get to know the people in Maggie Valley who really welcome and appreciate the motorcycle tourist as much as the local. We’ve got some special deals for you, discount cards to help your dollar go farther while your here, and information on the best rides in the area.

Photo – Happy Diners At The Mountaineer

Look for the flyers, ask at the visitors center, e-mail me, or visit All Roads Lead To Maggie.com to find out what’s happening each week. There is a group of people, growing and expanding, that are working overtime to insure you have the best affordable motorcyle vacation found anywhere. We’ve built all inclusive packages that include, meals, lodging, tours, discounts, entertainment at prices you won’t find elsewhere. It’s all possible because we are surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of miles of the best motorcyling roads found anywhere, more than you can see in one, two, even three trips. You never run out of great riding.

Every day is a motorcycle rally in Maggie Valley. The only thing missing are the noisy crowds. They’re too busy spending evenings on the porch in a rocking chair. Ride all day. Kick back in the evening. Now that’s a vacation.

Wayne@americaridesmaps.com

>> Go To America Rides Maps.comhttp://americaridesmaps.com

Good Day, Good Motorcycle Tour, Great Guests!

Carolyn and Larry G. from Granger, IN., enjoy one of my secret waterfalls

Paperwork is all done, bikes in the barn, time to crack open a cold one. A good time was had by all, especially me, but that’s not hard when you’re out riding in the mountains. Thanks to Carolyn and Larry for treating me to breakfast and dinner – somehow we were having so much fun we missed lunch. My fault, I didn’t know it was some kind of secret Latin holiday and all the Mexican restaurants on the route would be closed today. The pizza was good enough.

Most guides or tour companies won’t mess with just one bike or day tours. It’s the same amount of paperwork, liability, wear and tear on the bikes, and us guides don’t work cheap. The more sensible thing to do is run groups, preferably on multi-day trips. But then most companies have to cover hundreds of miles to get enough quality sights and scenery to make a trip rewarding. Not so here. As soon as you leave the barn you’re in the heart of it.

As should be the case things ran like clockwork. I waved at Larry as he was picking up his rental Harley from Gryphon Bikes in Maggie Valley. They met me for breakfast exactly on time at the Mountaineer Restaurant. I’d urged them to take their time and not leave too early so the mountains would clear of morning clouds. The last vapors were dissipating from the high spots at Waterrock Knob when we arrived – right on time.

That hearty breakfast from the Mountaineer stayed with us and we chose to skip the lunch stop at the Pisgah Inn on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Not accustomed to a Harley, the parkway was the ideal place to get a feel for the bike on the comfortable curves. By the time we were ready to go in search of waterfalls he was ready to tackle the twisties.

As the day evolved we progressed from the easy roads and waterfalls to those more challenging and off the beaten path. Though the first couple times the floorboards scraped on the sharper turns were unnerving for a flat-lander, I assured Larry the rental agency would consider this “normal wear and tear” for our mountain territory (it is). I saved the best for last with a collection of my “secret” waterfalls, a few I don’t reveal on my maps.

The weather was pleasant, just cool enough and a little breezy up high. It was hot but not stifling down in the valleys. The clouds threatened just enough to heighten awareness of the good fortune we had with no rain. Even the bathrooms appeared at just the right times. We ended the day by returning the rental Harley with 25 minutes to spare, bellies full, and all ready to spend some quality time riding the rocking chairs on the porch. Nothing like a good tour.

Wayne@americaridesmaps.com

>> Go To America Rides Maps.comhttp://americaridesmaps.com

Report on Blue Ridge Parkway Construction

I’ve been curious about the construction on the Blue Ridge Parkway since the road reopened north of Asheville, NC. This section of the parkway has been closed for more than a year due to a landslide. The detour around it took more than an hour and access to the highest mountain in the east, Mt. Mitchell, was limited. It reopened May 15, though there are still delays. It’s not so bad after all.

Now that I’m on the road again, I checked things out. The parkway advisory makes it appear much worse than it is – at least when I was there. 16 miles of the parkway are being resurfaced. It definately needs it. The road has deteriorated from Mt. Mitchell south. The southbound lane is in worse shape than the northbound lane. Expect some rough roads in this area if you’re headed south. North is much better, though there are a few places most easily described as “potholes” that are really spots where the road has subsided in large deep dips. Be alert, they are marked with orange paint, and you’ll avoid them.

The actual construction area is quite short though you may encounter construction vehicles and activities through the area. They appear to be doing it in small sections so the really bad stuff is limited to very short portions of the road. You may want to snap a photo (as
I did) of the rare appearance of traffic lights on the parkway. Delays are relatively short, you’ll cross a section of unpaved road, then all is well again.

Honestly the detours to the north around Boone, Blowing Rock, and into Virginia are much more inconvenient. There are a couple of bridges being repleced in these sections and the detours route you close enough into the cities to experience some traffic.

I expect to be in the area again soon and am confident there are better detours than the Park Service provides. Once I discover them I will map them out and offer them as free printable downloads at my America Rides Maps.com web site as I did last year.

In the mean time, be sure to include Mt. Mitchell as a stop on your parkway ride. The new observation platform is completed so you can enjoy the views if you’re willing to take a short hike up the trail. Don’t forget there is also the opportuntiy to eat at the highest restaraunt in the east just a mile or so down the road in Mt. Mitchell State Park.

Wayne@americaridesmaps.com

>> Go To America Rides Maps.com http://americaridesmaps.com